Cruising The Tuamotus Atolls: Fakarava and Toau

After Tahanea Atoll we did an overnight sail to Fakarava Atoll, some 50 miles west. We had heard a lot of amazing things from other cruisers about Fakarava, we were looking forward to exploring it.

Glenda at the helm driving the boat through the south pass which ended up being a piece of cake.. Glenda relieved!

We went straight to the Hirifa anchorage to pick up Cyrille who was staying with a local Jean for a few days. At Jean’s place we enjoyed fresh fish and coconut bread for lunch cooked in the traditional way on a bonfire.

Saying goodbye to Jean..  We had to leave for the south anchorage in Fakarava to get protection from a Mara’mu (frontal system) expected the next day.

100_1138 South Fakarava was amazing.. Tetamanu the town on the south pass was one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen!

100_1274 The picturesque restaurant on the water, where we were invited to have lunch..

The edge of the restaurant was like an aquarium.. Glenda saying hello to jaws1 and jaws2

The pensions (hotels) were amazing as well.. This one was on a small island that you reached by crossing the bridge..

We drift snorkeled in the pass towing the dinghy with the current coming in at 4 knots.. The coral was pristine and it was amazing to glide over it and the sea life at 4 knots.. it was like flying..

Glenda free diving to get up close and personal..

We did a couple of spectacular dives with the local dive shop (Tetamanu diving).. We dove to a depth of 90 feet to reach the sea floor and then drifted along with the current until we saw hundreds and hundreds and sharks soaring above us in about 60-70 feet of water.. Amazing sight. Definitely one of the most amazing dives I have ever done!! Pity my camera doesn’t go that deep 🙁

P6110899 We found out the hard way that the Butane we filled our tanks with in Marquesas lasts shorter than propane, so we decided to bake coconut bread on a bonfire on the beach for dinner..

Glenda putting the coconut bread dough in between leaves..

P6110896 Baking the coconut bread on the bonfire..

Viola! Delicious coconut bread made the traditional Polynesian way!!

Approaching Fakarava north anchorage.. After a week in south Fakarava we headed to north Fakarava to provision after nearly 4 weeks!. We had a glorious 30 mile flat water sail inside the lagoon..

Stops enjoying the sunset at anchor in south Fakarava..

We visited the Havaiki pearl farm and pension.. Another beautiful place..

The pension’s quiet contemplation area was pretty cool…

We had dinner at the pension where they had a traditional Polynesian dance show.. Glenda was pulled by one of the boys..

Still sleepy, we left early for the next atoll Toau, a day sail some 50 miles to the west..

Toau Atoll We went to Anse Amyot which is a false pass on the west side of the atoll..

We picked up a mooring.. a welcome relief from anchoring in coral..

100_1486 Stops with Valentine and Gaston’s house in the background.. they cooked up a feast for us and 4 other boats.. Lobster, poisson crew, mahi mahi and coconut cake for dessert. Yum yum..

The reef was only 30 feet from the boat, so we didn’t have to go far to snorkel.. We saw some rays

100_1418  Beautiful parrot fish.. We found tonnes of fish in a fish trap.. It was like an aquarium..

A couple of sharks were also caught in the fish trap.

We got up close and person to this black tip shark.. it wasn’t scared of us..

Goodbyes from Valentine and Gaston. After a couple of wonderful days in Anse Amyot we set sail at sunset for Tahiti, some 200 miles to west..

Tahiti ahoy!! Sighted land after 2 days at sea..

Facebook Comments

Author: Chet

Avid sailor.

2 thoughts on “Cruising The Tuamotus Atolls: Fakarava and Toau”

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *